Spain has some of the best beaches in the world. Its almost 8000 kilometres of coastline are home to some of the most visited cities in Europe: Barcelona, Malaga, Valencia or Bilbao are well known, but today we are going to take the car to discover the interior of Spain through its less travelled roads.
The northwest of Spain is completely unknown to most tourists who visit the country. The climate is not as pleasant as on the Mediterranean coast. Inland winters are cold and summers are hot and dry, so spring and autumn are the best times of year to get behind the wheel and get lost in the lesser known Spain.
This route is designed for lovers of slow tourism who enjoy gastronomy, history and the road. Just a word of advice: before you get behind the wheel, remember that Spanish traffic laws are there to protect you and us.
Gaudí 800 kilometres from Barcelona
We are going to visit León, one of the least known provinces in Spain. Our destination is Astorga, which will be the starting point for discovering a province with a history as rich as its gastronomy. Today’s Astorga is a city of Roman origin, as evidenced by its imposing walls, although it was inhabited by the Asturs before that. Located at a natural crossroads, it is still very well connected, making it the perfect starting point for exploring the region.
The Roman influence can be seen in the urban layout of Astorga, which has a Roman Museum where you can see coins, jewellery, tombstones and mosaics found in the city. Even more interesting is the Roman Route, which runs through the remains of several civil buildings and, above all, the Roman sewers, which are still in perfect condition after almost 2,000 years.
The Spanish War of Independence also left its mark on Astorga. A monument in the centre of the town commemorates its defenders, and the breach in the wall is a reminder of the two sieges to which the town was subjected. The French advance towards Portugal was halted in Astorga for a few months, allowing the Spanish, English and Portuguese armies to organise themselves. Napoleon himself came to Astorga to redirect the campaign, and the city is one of the most memorable battles commemorated in the Arc de Triomphe in Paris.
The Baroque façade and high altar of the impressive Astorga Cathedral stand out. Across the street is the neo-Gothic Episcopal Palace, one of the first works of the architect Antonio Gaudí. His stamp and personality are unmistakable. The Town Hall of Astorga, in the Plaza Mayor, attracts the attention of tourists when the figures of its clock strike the hours.
These are the routes we will take from Astorga to discover the province of León:
- Las Médulas: Astorga’s importance in Roman times was due to its status as the capital of an area where the most productive gold mines in the Empire were located. The site of Las Médulas has the World Heritage designation. It is a unique place where you can see the traces of Roman hydraulic engineering in the landscape. A one-hour walk is the best way to see it from all angles. You can end the day with a meal at the Palacio de Canedo, a restaurant where local produce is the main attraction.
- The city of León, former capital of the kingdom of the same name, has the most beautiful cathedral in Spain. The best time to admire its incredible stained glass is after lunch. And what do we eat in León? Right next to the cathedral is the Barrio Húmedo, famous for its many bars and tapas, most of which are included with your drink. The Plaza de San Martin is home to some of the tapas bars that are a must on our tour, such as La Bicha or El Botijo. In León you can also see a Gaudí building, the Casa Botines.
- Maragatería: This small region is one of the most unique in Spain. Its traditional architecture, perfectly preserved in Castrillo de los Polvazares, is unmistakable: solid stone houses built around a central courtyard and with a large entrance gate through which animals and carts used to enter. The Maragatos were muleteers who transported fish and other goods between the ports of Galicia and Madrid. The Val de San Lorenzo is famous for its woollen handicrafts, and its blankets are still the best way to beat the winter cold. In Santa Colomba de Somoza, we suggest you visit the Archivo Gráfico de la Era Pop de la Fundación Club 45, dedicated to pop, the sixties and mod culture. It has a very full programme, with music sessions or concerts every weekend.
- La Bañeza: 20 kilometres from Astorga is La Bañeza. Its streets are an open-air museum of graffiti, with works by some of the best urban artists in the world.
Gastronomy in Astorga and Maragatería
The fact that Astorga is our “base camp” will allow us to enjoy its gastronomy at our leisure, in which local products are the protagonists, along with others such as cod or octopus. The reason why these and other seafood products were consumed so far from the coast centuries ago is that the “maragatos” (muleteers) were responsible for transporting these products from the Galician ports to Madrid, making them part of the local pantry.
The legumes, vegetables and meats of the region are consumed in many different ways, but they have become famous for their star dish, the maragato stew. Its peculiarity is that the meat is served first, then the chickpeas and finally the soup, with custard for dessert. The restaurants of Astorga and its surroundings serve an excellent cocido maragato.
Astorga is also the birthplace of Cecina de León, one of the best-kept secrets of Spanish gastronomy. The region’s sausages, such as the spicy chorizo, are also highly prized. Many of these products can be sampled in the tapas bars around the Plaza Mayor. Very close to Astorga is the Bodega el Capricho, one of the best restaurants in the world for tasting exquisite beef.
Sweets are also traditional in Astorga, including chocolate, mantecadas, puff pastry and merles. The list is endless. The best way to start the day is with a good hot chocolate accompanied by some of the local sweets.
